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Subject Author Date
Wiring palladin 02-11-2006
---> Re: Wiring Robert L Bass02-11-2006
  |--> Re: Wiring Skinner Johnson02-11-2006
  |--> Re: Wiring Skinner Johnson02-11-2006
  ---> Re: Wiring Robert L Bass02-11-2006
    ---> Re: Wiring Skinner Johnson02-12-2006
    | ---> Re: Wiring Skinner Johnson02-12-2006
    | | `--> Re: Wiring Frank Olson02-12-2006
    | `--> Re: Wiring Robert L Bass02-12-2006
Posted by Robert L Bass on February 11, 2006, 11:04 pm
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On 11 Feb 2006 14:50:04 -0800, "Skinner Johnson"

> Don't mean to be a nitpicker, but if you connect only one pair of wires
> together at a time you will never get a closed circuit because the
> other disconnected pair will keep the circuit open (assuming it's a
> normally closed circuit).

If there are two pairs of wires at the window there's a good
chance one is from the panel and the other goes to the next
sensor. By shorting one, then the other you can find out which
pair is from the panel.

This assumes the zone is a closed loop (opens on alarm) which is
the most common type of burg circuit.

> Strip 1/2" or so of insulation from the ends of all the wires, Then,
> connect one wire from one pair of wires and one wire from the other
> pair of wires together. If the wiring is OK when you touch the
> remaining two loose wires together you should get a ready light on the
> keypad (if everything else is closed).

If everything else is closed and if it's a closed loop, that is
correct. If something else is open connecting the two pairs of
cables will not change the panel status. Moreover, you still
won't know which end goes to the panel. You could determine that
with a voltmeter, again assuming that nothing between the test
point and the panel is open.

> By the way, it is not the magnet in the window sill, but the switch.
> If you don't see some sort of button coming out of this switch (the
> closed window holds it down, completing the circuit), then it is a
> magnetic switch, and the magnet is drilled into the window itself,
> directly over the switch location. I've seen some cases where the
> magnet falls out of the window, making the window seem OPEN, even when
> it's closed. If that's the case, simply replace the magnet.

Yep. I've seen that on occasion, too, mostly on older systems
with rather large magnets. Have you seen the ones (ancient)
where a mechanical switch and magnet are enclosed in the frame
and a metal armature plate is installed in the door / window? I
came across one of those many years ago where the client had
replaced a door and then discovered his alarm wouldn't set up.
I've run across them occasionally over the years when doing
takeovers.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

Bass Burglar Alarms
The Online DIY Store
http://www.BassBurglarAlarms.com



Posted by Skinner Johnson on February 12, 2006, 1:29 am
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>. Have you seen the ones (ancient) where a mechanical switch and magnet are
>enclosed in the frame and a metal armature plate is installed in the door /
window?

I think the contacts you're talking about are the Ademco 56's. I still
have a box of them down in my parent's basement. Boy, I hope they're
not the contacts that this fellow has.

By the way, none of us has mentioned that if the loop in question has
an end of line resistor at the last contact in the loop, then touching
the wires together in any combination isn't going to give a ready light
at the keypad.

And, if it's any comfort to the fellow who pulled out the contact and
the wires didn't come out with it, I think we've all done that at least
once. It's not your fault, the installer didn't leave enough slack for
you. Welcome to the club.

Vince Inzinna


Posted by Skinner Johnson on February 12, 2006, 1:36 am
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"By the way, none of us has mentioned that if the loop in question has
an end of line resistor at the last contact in the loop, then touching
the wires together in any combination isn't going to give a ready light

at the keypad."

I just reread my post and want to clarify that statement (hey, give me
a break, it's 1:30am!). With an end of line resistor at the last
contact, then shorting either of the pairs of wires together will not
give a ready light.

I'm going to bed. There is a raging snowstorm going on right now.

Vince Inzinna


Posted by Frank Olson on February 12, 2006, 2:02 am
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Skinner Johnson wrote:

>
> ... There is a raging snowstorm going on right now.


There's a Bass Blizzard of Bullshit in here... :-)

Posted by Robert L Bass on February 12, 2006, 3:58 am
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> Boy, I hope they're not the contacts that this
> fellow has.

I doubt that's what he has.

> By the way, none of us has mentioned that if the loop
> in question has an end of line resistor at the last
> contact in the loop, then touching the wires together
> in any combination isn't going to give a ready light
> at the keypad.

Agreed, but it's an old, residential system. Knowing how few
installers even used EOLs on commercial installations, let along
residential jobs, I doubt he'll find EOLs anywhere except in the
panel box.

> And, if it's any comfort to the fellow who pulled out
> the contact and the wires didn't come out with it, I
> think we've all done that at least once. It's not your
> fault, the installer didn't leave enough slack for you.
> Welcome to the club.

Yep. It's one of the reasons I constantly teach DIYers to leave
a service loop of extra cable for every switch, motion, glass
break or keypad.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

Bass Burglar Alarms
The Online DIY Store
http://www.BassBurglarAlarms.com


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