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Posted by Crash Gordon on February 8, 2006, 10:47 am
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Gotta do a safe-room door lock...I'm thinking a 600lb mag lock? The door
will be semi hidden and swing towards the opening person/side. No other
hardware will be visible on the door...it's in a MBR closet and will have
shelves on it. Heavy wooden door.
I don't think a door strike will work as it will be visible.
Any other ideas before I rough it in tomorrow?
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Posted by Bob Worthy on February 8, 2006, 11:23 am
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What about the hinges? It the door is swinging out, the hinges and pins will
be exposed to the outside. A pin at each hinge that recesses into the jamb
when the door is closed will prevent the door from opening, from the hinge
side, if the pins are popped. With no other hardware on the outside of the
door, a 600 lb. mag, with a battery back up power supply, should be
sufficient. It should also be a steel door with steel jamb. There is a
company that is selling these doors now called Masters Security Door. They
are a Italian company with a new operation in the States. They are starting
to sell these doors in Florida's Home Depots. Their website will be
available shortly. It is a great door.
> Gotta do a safe-room door lock...I'm thinking a 600lb mag lock? The door
> will be semi hidden and swing towards the opening person/side. No other
> hardware will be visible on the door...it's in a MBR closet and will have
> shelves on it. Heavy wooden door.
>
> I don't think a door strike will work as it will be visible.
>
> Any other ideas before I rough it in tomorrow?
>
>
>
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|
Posted by Crash Gordon on February 8, 2006, 11:27 am
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room is block, but the frame out is wood. I guess they'll hide the hinges
with the shelving - it's not gonna be 100% invisible obviously..it coulda
been if they had consulted with me 2 months ago instead of yesterday.
I'm thinking of hiding the control/pwr supply & backup outside the room
instead of inside since I want the lock to fail-secure...whaddya think? Of
course a rex button inside the room.
| What about the hinges? It the door is swinging out, the hinges and pins
will
| be exposed to the outside. A pin at each hinge that recesses into the jamb
| when the door is closed will prevent the door from opening, from the hinge
| side, if the pins are popped. With no other hardware on the outside of the
| door, a 600 lb. mag, with a battery back up power supply, should be
| sufficient. It should also be a steel door with steel jamb. There is a
| company that is selling these doors now called Masters Security Door. They
| are a Italian company with a new operation in the States. They are
starting
| to sell these doors in Florida's Home Depots. Their website will be
| available shortly. It is a great door.
| > Gotta do a safe-room door lock...I'm thinking a 600lb mag lock? The door
| > will be semi hidden and swing towards the opening person/side. No other
| > hardware will be visible on the door...it's in a MBR closet and will
have
| > shelves on it. Heavy wooden door.
| >
| > I don't think a door strike will work as it will be visible.
| >
| > Any other ideas before I rough it in tomorrow?
| >
| >
| >
|
|
|
|
|
Posted by Bob Worthy on February 8, 2006, 4:28 pm
If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
it coulda
> been if they had consulted with me 2 months ago instead of yesterday.
Don't ya luv it..
>
> I'm thinking of hiding the control/pwr supply & backup outside the room
> instead of inside since I want the lock to fail-secure...whaddya think?
Your call... but, if the door fails secure, which it should, and the perp
has access to the control, you need to consider a mechanical type rex button
(pneumatic type possibly) and not an electronic type rex device and that
connection needs to stay within the protected area and not the control/pwr
supply. I usually add an emergency button and if budget allows a dedicated
phone line, which I also use for the alarm panel. I put a wall phone in as
well. Safe rooms can be used for storm protection as well as personnal
protection during a crime. A phone is handy as long as there is service. I
know someone here mentioned a cellphone, but in a bunker you don't alway
have cell signal, so I would be leary of limiting it to this suggestion
alone. Have electrical outlet for TV/Radio and an exhaust fan. Put the light
on a dimmer switch. Total light or total darkness can get to a person if
they spend an extended amount of time in there. Any wall that is not block
or concrete, line with 3/4" plywood before drywall. Makes the door jamb a
little tricky but that is why they have split jambs or extention jambs. But
then again you said this one is to late...Oh well...there is always next
time.
|
|
Posted by Crash Gordon on February 8, 2006, 7:00 pm
If you were Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Yep, gonna do a phone and low voltage backup lighting.
Still undecided about putting power in or out of room.
|
| it coulda
| > been if they had consulted with me 2 months ago instead of yesterday.
|
| Don't ya luv it..
|
| >
| > I'm thinking of hiding the control/pwr supply & backup outside the room
| > instead of inside since I want the lock to fail-secure...whaddya think?
|
| Your call... but, if the door fails secure, which it should, and the perp
| has access to the control, you need to consider a mechanical type rex
button
| (pneumatic type possibly) and not an electronic type rex device and that
| connection needs to stay within the protected area and not the control/pwr
| supply. I usually add an emergency button and if budget allows a dedicated
| phone line, which I also use for the alarm panel. I put a wall phone in as
| well. Safe rooms can be used for storm protection as well as personnal
| protection during a crime. A phone is handy as long as there is service. I
| know someone here mentioned a cellphone, but in a bunker you don't alway
| have cell signal, so I would be leary of limiting it to this suggestion
| alone. Have electrical outlet for TV/Radio and an exhaust fan. Put the
light
| on a dimmer switch. Total light or total darkness can get to a person if
| they spend an extended amount of time in there. Any wall that is not block
| or concrete, line with 3/4" plywood before drywall. Makes the door jamb a
| little tricky but that is why they have split jambs or extention jambs.
But
| then again you said this one is to late...Oh well...there is always next
| time.
|
|
|
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