Aritech GS 610 Shock Sensor

Aritech GS 610 Shock Sensor
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Subject Author Date
Aritech GS 610 Shock Sensor David 05-05-2008
Posted by alarman on May 6, 2008, 12:48 am
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Jim wrote:
> I've mentioned this here before but .... a long time ago, a DIY'er
> called me to trouble shoot his system. He couldn't seem to isolate the
> problem. He had wired the house while it was under construction and by
> looking at the diagram on the door of the control panel concluded that
> only one single wire needed to be attached to the terminal on the
> board ...... go out to each of the contacts in a zone in series and
> then one single wire from the last contact return to the panel ......
> all wires behind the wall.
>
> Try and trouble shoot THAT!

Ha! Had the same thing many years ago. A doctor had installed his own Radio
Shack system, and wired it just that way. I ended up installing a proper
system, and he's still a customer.

--
js

The voices in my head told me to clean my guns today.



Posted by Robert L Bass on May 6, 2008, 1:31 am
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"alarman" wrote:
>
> Ha! Had the same thing many years ago. A doctor had installed his own Radio
> Shack system, and wired it just that way. I ended up installing a proper
> system, and he's still a customer.

I took over a system that another alarm installer had wired somewhat
differently. The site was the rectory of St. Mary's Catholic Church in East
Hartford, CT. During construction the "professional" installer had wired all
the windows and doors. The splices were made behind the sheetrock. A single
twisted pair of wires was connected to the delay zone on the panel. When
tested nothing worked. After a while the installer gave up and just walked
away from the job. An official of the church called me to look at it.

The sensors were all NC (circuit closed with magnet present). All sensors
were wired in parallel. I pulled the sensors and replaced them with NO
(circuit closed when magnet is removed). That solved the problem for the time
being but if they ever have a bad sensor it's going to be a real pain in the
olson figuring it out.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

==============================>
Bass Home Electronics
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
Sales & Tech Support 941-925-8650
Customer Service 941-870-2310
Fax 941-870-3252
==============================>


Posted by Jim on May 6, 2008, 1:11 pm
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> Jim wrote:
> > I've mentioned this here before but .... a long time ago, a DIY'er
> > called me to trouble shoot his system. He couldn't seem to isolate the
> > problem. He had wired the house while it was under construction and by
> > looking at the diagram on the door of the control panel concluded that
> > only one single wire needed to be attached to the terminal on the
> > board ...... go out to each of the contacts in a zone in series and
> > then one single wire from the last contact return to the panel ......
> > all wires behind the wall.
>
> > Try and trouble shoot THAT!
>
> Ha! Had the same thing many years ago. A doctor had installed his own Radi=
o
> Shack system, and wired it just that way. I ended up installing a proper
> system, and he's still a customer.
>

I found this guys problem .... it was one of those "butterfly takeoffs
on his sliding glass door that was dirty. But the next time he
called ...... "I was busy".....

Posted by Crash Gordon on May 6, 2008, 1:32 am
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how about an entire house with all windows looped in walls and open circuit
switches!...pita

--
**Crash Gordon**







>>
>>
>> > yah, if they're looped in the wall (yuck).
>> > call the rocket scientists!
>>
>> Had one years ago where the homeowner drywalled over two bedroom windows
>> leaving the contacts in the system. On the outside he closed in a carport
>> to
>> make a garage, leaving the windows exposed on the interior of the garage.
>> Ok, once I realized what he did, fixing it wasn't much of a problem.
>> Along
>> with multiple windows on one drop, unloading all the crap he piled up in
>> the
>> garage, which hid the windows on that side to begin with, reminded me of
>> why
>> I hate taking over systems.
>>
>>
>>
>>
> I've mentioned this here before but .... a long time ago, a DIY'er
> called me to trouble shoot his system. He couldn't seem to isolate the
> problem. He had wired the house while it was under construction and by
> looking at the diagram on the door of the control panel concluded that
> only one single wire needed to be attached to the terminal on the
> board ...... go out to each of the contacts in a zone in series and
> then one single wire from the last contact return to the panel ......
> all wires behind the wall.
>
> Try and trouble shoot THAT!



Posted by Jim on May 6, 2008, 1:28 pm
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wrote:
> how about an entire house with all windows looped in walls and open circui=
t
> switches!...pita
>
> --
> **Crash Gordon**
>
Ya know ......... back when I started, we used to run into a lot of
open circuit jobs that had been installed in the "early" days of the
industry. I've still got some of the "F" contacts and leaf springs on
bakeilite. I don't know if many remember that these were originally
used open circuit and evolved into closed circuit systems as they
became more popular. I've got a couple of double bullet takeoffs and
resetable door trips too ... the forerunner to the Ademco # 35 push
button shunt contact.

What I'd like to find is what used to be called a "bell drop relay" or
a "Constant ringing drop" This was a little self contained alarm
"panel" in a small metal container about 4" X 4". It had a few
terminals on it to which you attached a battery, a bell and an OC
contact to it. When the contact closed the bell rang and locked in. It
could be reset by pushing a button on the side. They were great for
emergency door opening notification.

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